Hair masks aren’t interchangeable. Protein masks, moisture treatments, bond builders and lipid-rich formulas each fix a different kind of damage — and using the wrong one can make hair feel worse. Here’s what each type does, why it works, and how to know which one your hair actually needs.

Protein Masks

Protein masks support hair that has lost structural strength. Hair is made of keratin, and when those keratin chains break down through heat, colour or wear, the strand becomes stretchy and fragile. Hydrolysed proteins fit into these weakened areas and help reinforce them from within.

Used correctly, protein brings back resilience. Overused, it makes hair stiff and brittle.

Use protein when hair stretches too far when wet, feels overly soft, or breaks mid-strand. Once every few weeks is enough for most hair.

Recommended product:
Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector — a well-known strengthening treatment for weakened hair.

Bond Repair Masks

Bond repair is designed for deeper internal damage — the kind caused by bleaching, colouring or repeated heat. Damage breaks disulfide bonds inside the hair, weakening the fibre from the core.

Bond builders reconnect or stabilise these internal links. They don’t moisturise or soften, but they correct the root cause of persistent breakage.

Use bond repair once or twice a week on damaged hair, then reduce as strength improves.

Recommended product:

K18 Leave In Molecular Repair Mask — a peptide-based treatment that helps rebuild broken internal bonds.

Moisture Masks

Moisture masks refill hydration in the cortex. Without enough water, hair becomes rigid, rough and prone to snapping.

Humectants pull moisture back in, improving softness, elasticity and overall manageability. But overusing moisture can cause “mushy,” overly stretchy hair.

Use moisture masks when hair feels dry, coarse, frizzy or dull. Once or twice a week works for most people.

Recommended product:
Shea Moisture Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Mask — a deeply hydrating treatment that restores elasticity.

Lipid & Ceramide Masks

Lipid-rich masks rebuild the protective outer barrier. The cuticle depends on fatty acids and ceramides to stay sealed and smooth. When this barrier erodes, moisture escapes and the hair becomes rough, porous and difficult to manage.

Lipids smooth the cuticle, lock hydration inside and improve shine. They also help previous treatments last longer.

Use lipids when hair loses moisture quickly, feels rough, or has dry splitting ends. Once a week is usually enough.

Recommended product:
Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask — rich in oils and ceramides that strengthen the cuticle barrier.

How to Combine These Masks for the Best Repair

Hair repair works best when the treatments are sequenced, not layered. Rotating masks gives each one a chance to do its job without overwhelming the fibre.

A simple cycle:

Week 1: Bond repair
Week 2: Moisture
Week 3: Lipids / ceramides
Week 4: Protein

Repeat based on how your hair responds. Adjust frequency if hair becomes too soft, too stiff, too dry or too fragile.

Hair Mask Troubleshooter: Common Problems & Fixes

Sometimes the way your hair reacts after masking reveals exactly what’s missing — or what you’ve accidentally overdone. If hair feels soft when wet but snaps once dry, it usually means you’re heavy on moisture and lacking structure. A protein treatment or light bond repair will restore resilience, and pausing moisture masks for a week or two often brings the balance back.

If your hair turns stiff, crunchy, or oddly rigid after masking, that’s classic protein overload. The strands have more structure than they can handle. Switch to moisture and lipids only until softness returns — most hair can recover from this within a couple of washes.

When hair looks glossy but still breaks easily, the issue sits deeper. Internal bonds are weakened, and the cuticle’s shine hides the damage. Bond repair treatments once or twice a week help stabilise these broken links so moisture and strength can actually stay inside.

Hair that stays dry no matter what you use is almost always missing lipids. When the protective outer barrier erodes, hydration escapes immediately. A weekly ceramide or oil-rich mask helps rebuild this layer so everything else can finally work again.

If curls fall flat, lose definition or seem “tired,” the hair’s internal scaffolding needs support. Protein or bond repair usually restores shape and springiness quickly.

A greasy, coated feeling — especially if hair seems heavy or waxy — has nothing to do with moisture or protein. It’s product buildup. A gentle clarifying wash such as Olaplex No 4C Bond Calrifying Shampoo, followed by a simple moisture mask brings hair back to normal.

And if every product suddenly backfires, making your hair worse instead of better, your routine is overloaded. Resetting with a simple four-week rotation (protein → moisture → bond repair → lipids) usually reveals what your hair actually needs.

In Conclusion

Hair repair isn’t about piling on rich products — it’s about understanding what your hair is missing. When protein, moisture, lipids and bond repair each play their role, the fibre responds with strength, softness and genuine resilience. Once you learn to read your hair’s signals, you’ll always know exactly what it needs and why — and that’s when your routine finally starts working for you.